The term “Resistant Hair” refers to its ability to resist penetration by water and is an indication of the condition of the outer layer of the hair (cuticle). Although hair is naturally resistant to penetration by water (hydrophobic) and coarse hair is usually more resistant than fine hair, everything we do damages the cuticle which makes the hair less resistant. Over time the ends of longer hair become less resistant than the hair near the scalp. Shampoo, styling with a hair dryer and curling iron and sun exposure all make the hair less resistant.
The term “Porous Hair” refers to its ability to absorb water and is the opposite of resistant hair. Resistant hair has low porosity (hydrophobic). Hair that is less resistant has high porosity (hydrophilic). Slick, glossy magazine paper is resistant and has low porosity. Facial tissue is less resistant and has high porosity.
Resistant hair is more difficult to color or perm because it resists penetration, but resistant hair is often used as an excuse when a color or perm fails to achieve the desired results. Although gray hair is often believed to be resistant, gray hair is no more resistant than the pigmented hair on the same head. The structure of gray hair is identical to the structure of pigmented hair but requires more color simply because it is has no color.
A deposit color formula on gray hair must be a level six or lower and contain all three primary colors in the following proportions; three parts yellow, two parts red and one part blue to achieve a natural looking hair color.
Dirty, dry hair is more resistant that clean, damp hair. Shampoo and towel dry the hair prior to the haircolor application. Water swells the hair and draws the color into the hair due to hydrogen bonding
I have coarse hair that is graying. I’ve used semi-permanent hair color with no success. What should the process be for coloring hair with semi-permanent hair color? I have used the Clairol Beautiful Collection Semi-Permanent Color in the brown/black shades.
-Kay
Hi Kay,
Your gray hair is no more resistant than your dark hair, it’s just white and needs more color. I don’t know how much gray you have or how dark your natural color is, but here goes.
Semi-Permanent color has a slightly lower pH than permanent color, so it’s intended for deposit only. Permanent color will not lighten your natural color, if used with 10 volume peroxide, and you make get better coverage. Don’t be afraid of permanent color.
10 volume is normally used for deposit only, but it’s only 3% peroxide. It’s 97% water. You need more color and less water. Mix 2 ounces of color with 1 ounce of 10 volume peroxide. Throw the other ounce of peroxide out. You don’t need it. You will have a more concentrated dye mixture and still have enough peroxide to develop the dye. Better coverage and less damage.
You MUST use a color dark enough. A level 6 or lower. Most of it won’t stick. It’s like staining instead of painting. You MUST use a Golden Brown, with 3 parts red, 2 parts yellow and 1 part blue. Use a dark golden brown. Some colors are intended for gray hair.
Always apply color to clean, damp hair. A light shampoo and towel dry before the application. Better penetration and better coverage.
Please let me know how it turns out.
You can most definitely still get translucent to opaque coverage with up to a level 8 even on resistant grey hair. Love this article though very detailed!
If your getting the coverage you need with a level 8, that’s great. My recommendation is for those who aren’t getting the coverage they want.